Galerie Olfactive 2018: An Extraordinary Experience in Grasse's Prison
Art Books Events

by Dariia Fessalonika
07/13/18 10:35:49 ( 1 comments )

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When the WPC 2018 was over and the big perfumery corporations were going back to their offices, Sergey Borisov set off to create fragrances in Galimard and I decided to attend a curious event in Grasse: the exhibition of niche perfumes titled Galerie Olfactive 2018.

The adventures began immediately at the entrance: In the mysterious darkness of green plants twisted along the walls, a variety of different fragrances filled the air and gleaming candles added an enigmatic atmosphere. Only quiet talks from private small rooms interrupted the silence and at the end of the corridor Cecil Zarokian was giving an interview about the creation of already sensational Remember Me for Jovoy.

Contrasts, contradictions and a creative atmosphere greeted me.

But let's talk about everything in order.

In June 2018, Melanie Mugnier and Gregory Routier, owners of the old Grasse jail, under the patronage of Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud, the founder of the brand Sabé Masson and with support of the honorary Mayor of Grasse Jean-Pierre Leleu opened a three-day exhibition of niche perfumery, Galerie Olfactive 2018, for the first time.

Booth Sabé Masson

"Going into Grasse’s old prison at the heart of the city center, it became obvious that we wanted to have a wind of freedom blowing in. What is freedom? Freedom of thought, freedom of speech, freedom to create, innovate, change… to not stay still but to open up to the world around us and show alternatives, ambition, dreams come true…

What better symbol of freedom than Perfume? Perfume that is part of Grasse, that defines Grasse. A prestigious city and its territory, elevated since Renaissance by men and women passionate about the magic that this French land gives them through the seasons, thus becoming the world’s capital of fragrance and aroma.

This was more than enough reason to open up this old prison’s doors the creators of tomorrow’s perfumes: students, teachers, craftsmen, perfume and raw material houses, distributors, noses or «niche» perfumers as we call those who reinvent themselves. Who knows if the architect might have known back in the time that far from isolation, these 19th century walls would one day be grass-covered to witness the sharing, discovery and exchange… a buzzing of new ideas and fragrances."

- official press-release of Galerie Olfactive 2018


It was not the first time that the former prison acted as an art venue for events: previously there took a place art exhibitions, concerts and private parties.

Founders and perfumers of niche brands, local suppliers of natural ingredients and consulting companies, manufacturers of blotters and representatives of the famous perfumery schools were all present - such an extravaganza this prison has never seen!

An exciting program was created for the guests that included more than fifty perfume brands from different countries, thematic conferences in the Palais des Congrès and of course the neighborhood of Grasse and the blooming Provencal fields.

The ancient walls hid inside a real greenhouse of living plants: landscape designers from Gardener Landscape CAPA decorated them with green lianas and outlandish plants with bright flower buds.

On the first and second floor of the jail there were already well-known niche market players The Different Company, Neela Vermeire, Nejma, Abel, Aether, Perris Monte-Carlo, Evody, Jovoy, L’Orchestre and dozens of others.

The Different Company

Each brand had the opportunity to create its own exposition in one of the small private rooms (ex cells) size 7-8 m², which were located in a row on both sides of the three-story building.

Perfumer and founder of the French brand Autour Du Parfum, Eline Pajot, in addition to several perfume lines also presented collections of designer jewelry.

Autour Du Parfum

One of the largest manufacturers of designer printing products for luxury brands, Carestia, showed their portfolio - unusual blotters in the form of bottles, flowers, ice cream and bracelets.

On the third floor creative team of photographers K&T (Kathy Canis & Thomas Sappe) placed offbeat perfumery art project "Eye Nose You".

In small wooden boxes, from a distance similar to birdhouses, were placed photos of intimate parts of the body where we usually spray perfume: the nape of the neck, the back of the hand, the decolette... Photos were shown that were on the verge of provocation, but within the bounds of decency.

In order to see them you needed to look into a small eye-lens and at the same time you felt the aroma that comes from the typical rattan sticks, soaked in perfume and placed in the bottom of the box with holes.

According to the creators, these boxes are primarily designed for lovers who miss each other.

Rattan sticks should be soaked with perfume, the "object of love," and each time looking at the picture the customer will be able to feel the familiar scent that enhances happy memories.

The neighboring building Palais des Congrès housed the leading perfume schools ISIPCA, GIP, Cinquième Sens, representatives of the magazine NEZ, rare and discontinued fragrances from L'Osmothèque and local producers of natural ingredients.

In a separate room partner of the exhibition Argeville presented exposition of the fragrances created by their perfumers, collection of perfumed candles, flavours and natural components.

Argeville

Creation of the exposition for Argeville dealt with a company 1st. MOOD, who offers perfumery consulting and provides services for contract manufacturing.

1st. MOOD

In the conference hall, perfumery schools presented their programs, brands showed interesting cases, Cecil Zarokian talked about the peculiarities of work as an independent perfumer and the art process of creating her works, presented at the Galerie Olfactive 2018 (Remember Me for Jovoy, Sabé Masson Après la pluie Le beau temps, Green Water for Jacques Fath, MDCI Fêtes Persanes, Jul et Mad Aqua Sextius, and Collection Galerie for Evody: Tubéreuse Manifeste, Couleur Fauve, Sens Abstrait).

Michel Roudnitska shared memories about his father, the great Edmond Roudnitska, and impressions about working with the factory of Art & Parfum (more details about Art & Parfum you can find in my article), which helps niche brands to produce small quantities of products on the highest level.

Cecile Zarokyan with her mentor Daniel Morel (Robertet)

The first launch of Galerie Olfactive 2018 was very impressive and offered a full kaleidoscope of emotions while bringing together all the representatives of the perfume industry in the world's capital of fragrances – the magical Grasse!

Author

Dariia Fessalonika

Dariia Fessalonika Columnist

Founder of the ΘΕΣΣΑΛΟΝΙΚΑ perfume studio (www.fessalonika.com), perfumer and entrepreneur in the beauty industry. Dariia talks about the"kitchen" of perfumery, analyses different approaches towards fragrance creating and characteristics of the scent perception. She has visited more than 40 countries, exploring authentic cultures, local perfumery production and olfactory code of other nations.

News Comments

ekoeko
Les Années 25

ekoeko 07/13/18 15:34

Thank you, Daria.

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